For Bicyclers, it is a Sleeping Beauty: The Skyline Drive
by Robert W. Talbot
My wife and I first found out about the Skyline Drive in 1948.It was built by the Civilain Conservation Corps during the depresssion and dedicated by President Roosevelt in 1936. It travels 105 miles along the very top of a section of the Blue Ridge Mountains in the Shenandoah National Park, Virginia. We had some extra travel time so drove the length of it. Never in our wildest dreams did we expect the spectacular beauty we experienced that day. I vowed then to go back some day and do it up right.
In May, 1958, Jim, a longtime friend of mine, and I decided to make a round trip of the Drive on our bikes. At that time we had one speed city bikes, mine a Sears Roebuck and his a blue Columbia. We used to say we had 4 speeds: high, medium, slow and walk.
I had a Nash Statesman automobile, the back of which made up into a bed. The only car that did that then or since. We flipped down the bed and piled in our bikes along with a bunch of stuff we greenhorns thought we would need and took off from East Orange, New Jersey.
A good day’s drive took us to the entrance and we were up very early the next day and set and stopped at the entrance to the Drive, paid our fees and received a map then drove the first 20 miles. There was no way, except walking our bikes, we could make that first 20 miles. It is now a cinch on multi-speed bikes. Those first miles go from 700 to 3300 feet elevation.
We parked the car and took out our bikes. We had resurrected two old Boy Scout puptents which we rolled up and wrapped in oilcloth and strapped on with an ingenious support under the handlebars. We rolled up our sleeping bags in which we packed other gear and strapped them on, protected by an oilcloth cover, to the flat carrier on top of the rear mudguard. For water we had bought Boy Scout canteens. The rest of our gear we carried in small backpacks we could easily manage. The tire pump was in the standard bracket, but for the canteens we rigged up special brackets.
Our first test was an easy 2 miles to a service area. We noticed several walking trails and were told by a Ranger that we would cross the Appalachian Trail many times as we rode the Skyline and it is believed that that section of trail is one of the most beautiful.
So rode abreast talking rapid-fire about all the wonders of nature we had been thrust into so abruptly. It was like we had discovered a different world. The narrow road is mainly for sightseeing and the twists and turns made the 30 mph speed limit a must, so we were never in any danger.
As you looked into the forest it was almost completely carpeted in trillium. A Ranger told us we would see no end to the carpet of flowers as we road along and he was right. It was wonderful taking in all this beauty just peddling along with such ease.
After several miles we started to pump. And pump we did for the next 10 miles as we climbed. It was nice and cool and made for comfortable riding.
After many gorgeous gaps and panoramas, we went through Marys Rock Tunney, a spooky, only 13 foot high tunnel cut through 600 feet of rock.
Along this ten miles every view seemed more spectacular than the one before. There are 40 overlooks and 36 other viewing spots. You need a lot of time to soak up this unbelievable beauty! Binoculars are a must on a trip like this, but we stupidly left ours at home. All the beauty is enchanced many times through binoculars.
Incidently, we hadn’t used any of our water because now and then we took advantage of the cold clear water seeping out of the rocks from the mountain streams.
We had obtained backcountry camping permits so at 6:30 we made our first overnight stop. (Regular camping was limited; we found our plan was better as we didn’t have to hold ourselves to designated spots, but camped in the backcountry at our convenience–more primative, but back to nature.) We carried our bikes into the woods to a clearing and set up our tents. We were very tired, mainly from the hard pumping, but also from the sheer excitement of taking in all that beauty. We fell asleep to the tune of an owl and the rat-a-tat of a woodpecker. I woke at the crack of dawn with a cute little salamander lazily walking across my stomach and the sound of warblers ringing out. There are 35 different species of warblers in the area.
At Lewis Mountain we found a store, but no dining facilities. We bought a can of peaches, apples, boxes of cereal, milk, muffins and cheese and crackers for later on. We cut out the side of the cereal box and poured some milk in. Such things as the pre-marked bowls hadn’t been invented yet. We started on down the road chomping on an apple.
The next 23 miles were fairly easy. Most of the towns you look down on look like pretty little toy towns. Now we experienced the most beautiful panoramas, where you could see the river winding for miles.
The next day we reached the south end of the Drive and peddled over to a little row of cabins. We rented a cabin, had a hot shower and walked over to a Howard Johnson Restuarant for dinner. What a trip!
We were excited about the return leg and sat up too late planning it. Fortunately Jim and I agreed on most everything and that is important when planning a trip like this with someone.
Four days later we ended up back north where we found a very stern warning that our car had been illegally parked all that time.
Looking back on this trip, I would say we accomplished quite a feat on our big old single speed bikes. With new modern equipment, much more expanded facilities along the way, wider road, some shoulders, more trails and the helpful Rangers along the way, this trip would be a super experience today.
A trip like this is ideal for 8 to 12 days. Having travelled extensively I believe the Skyline Drive is probably the most beautiful 105-mile stretch to be found anywhere. Done right I believe you will agree “The Skyline Drive is a sleeping beauty waiting for bicyclers and photographers to discover and enjoy.”
